CHAPTER 4 — THE DESIGNER’S ADVIC
Details That Can Completely Change the Result of a Garment
In dressmaking, choosing a beautiful fabric is important. But understanding how it behaves is just as important.
A fabric can change once it is lined, washed, cut or simply worn. Its weight, drape, softness and even the way it creases will influence the final result.
With experience, you learn to notice all these small details before starting a creation.
In this fourth chapter of L’Atelier des Matières, I am sharing some advice from my experience as a dressmaker: lining, drape, body shape, pre-washing and creasing.
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ARTICLE 1
Why Line a Garment?
Lining is sometimes seen simply as an interior finish.
Yet it can serve several purposes: reducing transparency, playing with colour, improving comfort and contributing to the construction of the garment.
Lining to Reduce Transparency
This is probably its most obvious purpose.
Some fabrics, such as chiffon, cotton voile, lace and other very fine fabrics, can be transparent or semi-transparent.
A lining provides the necessary opacity and can make the garment more comfortable to wear.
The colour of the lining is also important. A white, ivory, nude or matching lining will not necessarily give the same result, particularly underneath a transparent fabric.
Lining Can Also Play with Colour
Lining is not only there to hide transparency.
It can also become a genuine creative choice.
Under chiffon or another transparent fabric, for example, you can deliberately choose a lining in a different colour.
Layering the two fabrics will then alter the colour that is visible from the outside.
You can also use different colours on different parts of the garment: one colour underneath the skirt and another underneath the bodice, for example.
This can create shades, contrasts and sometimes very interesting effects simply by taking advantage of the transparency of the outer fabric.
Transparency, which we sometimes try to conceal, can therefore become part of the design itself.
Lining for Comfort
Some fabrics are beautiful but less pleasant when worn directly against the skin.
A lining creates a layer between the outer fabric and the body.
In a jacket or coat, a sufficiently smooth lining also makes the garment easier to put on and allows it to move more comfortably with the body.
Lining Contributes to the Construction
We should not forget that by adding a lining, we are adding a second fabric to the garment.
Its weight, thickness, softness and drape therefore matter.
If I line an extremely lightweight fabric with something much heavier, I can alter its movement and drape.
On the other hand, a well-chosen lining can complement the outer fabric without taking away its character.
For me, the main fabric and the lining should always be considered together.
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ARTICLE 2
Why Is the Drape of a Fabric So Important?
Drape describes the way a fabric naturally falls under its own weight.
It is one of the most important things to observe because the same design can look completely different depending on the drape of the chosen fabric.
But drape should not simply be divided into two categories: fluid or structured.
There are many variations.
A Fluid Fabric Can Follow the Body… or Not
We might assume that a fluid fabric will automatically cling to the body.
That is not always the case.
Some fluid fabrics follow the body closely and can emphasise certain curves.
Others have a beautiful drape and fall naturally downwards, but do not necessarily cling to the body.
The weight, softness and construction of the textile, as well as the cut of the garment, all affect the final result.
A Heavier Fabric Can Also Behave Differently
A heavy fabric is not automatically a stiff fabric.
Some materials have weight while remaining soft and may follow the shape of the body.
Others fall heavily but retain enough structure not to define the silhouette in the same way.
This is why it can be difficult to judge a fabric simply by reading its composition or weight.
You need to see it and touch it.
A Fabric with More Structure
A more structured material can help create volume, maintain a shape or give greater presence to certain parts of a garment.
But again, it is neither better nor worse than a fluid fabric.
It all depends on the design you want to create.
Lining Can Also Change the Drape
You also need to consider what will be placed underneath the fabric.
A lightweight, fluid fabric can behave differently once it has been lined.
The lining can add weight, change the movement and sometimes even alter the way the fabric follows the body.
That is why, when I consider the drape of a creation, I do not look only at the outer fabric: I think about the garment as a whole.
A Very Simple Gesture
When I choose a fabric, I do not simply look at it lying flat on a table.
I take it in my hands, lift it and let it fall naturally.
I observe the folds it creates, its movement, its weight and the way it settles.
Very often, just a few seconds are enough to understand a great deal.
The right drape is not necessarily the most fluid or the most structured. It is the one that suits the design and the result you want to achieve.
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ARTICLE 3
How Do You Choose a Fabric According to Body Shape?
Choosing a fabric according to body shape is important, but for me it certainly does not mean forbidding yourself certain fabrics or designs.
I do not like rigid rules that say a particular body shape must wear a particular fabric and avoid another.
When I create for someone, I naturally consider their body shape, but I also look at the design they want to wear, their proportions, the drape of the fabric and the result they are looking for.
Everything needs to be considered together.
Fabrics Interact with the Body in Different Ways
Not every fabric behaves in the same way on the body.
A very fluid fabric may follow the body’s curves more closely.
But as we have already seen with drape, fluid does not necessarily mean clingy.
Some fabrics fall beautifully without particularly emphasising curves. Others, even when lightweight and fluid, will follow and define the body more closely.
A heavier fabric may also cling to the body or, on the contrary, have enough structure to fall without defining it.
This is why I never choose a material simply because it is described as “fluid”, “heavy” or “structured”.
I look at how it actually behaves.
The Design Also Matters
For me, you cannot talk about body shape without also talking about the design.
The same fabric will not produce the same result on a straight dress, a fitted dress, a flared skirt, a draped dress or a garment with more volume.
The cut can highlight certain parts of the body, follow curves more discreetly or completely alter the proportions of a silhouette.
It is therefore always the combination of design and fabric that interests me.
Consider What the Person Wants
When I create a bespoke garment, I also look at the person herself.
What would she like to highlight?
What makes her feel comfortable?
Does she like close-fitting clothes or prefer more ease?
Does she want to define her waist, emphasise her shoulders, create volume or achieve a simpler line?
Two people with similar body shapes can have completely different tastes and wishes.
And that matters enormously when choosing a fabric.
Choosing for Your Body Shape Without Limiting Yourself
This is probably the point I care about most.
Taking your body shape into account does not mean limiting yourself.
If someone loves a particular fabric or design, my role as a designer is not to immediately say:
“No, that isn’t suitable for your body shape.”
I prefer to look for a way to make it work.
We can adapt the cut, reposition volume, alter certain proportions, work differently around the waist or choose a drape that creates a different result.
That is precisely what bespoke dressmaking allows us to do.
For me, choosing a fabric according to body shape is not about deciding what someone is or is not allowed to wear. It is about finding the right combination of person, design and fabric to achieve the result they want.
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ARTICLE 4
Pre-wash • Test • Observe
Why Pre-Wash Your Fabrics?
Pre-washing is a very important step for many fabrics.
When you buy a fabric, it may still change during its first wash.
And it is much better to discover this before cutting and sewing the garment rather than afterwards.
Some Fabrics Can Shrink
This is one of the main reasons for pre-washing.
A fabric may lose a few centimetres during its first wash.
On a piece of fabric, that is not necessarily a problem.
But on a finished garment that has been fitted to someone’s measurements, a few centimetres can make all the difference.
A Fabric Can Also Change in Appearance
Washing does not only affect dimensions.
Depending on the material, the fabric may become softer, change slightly in texture, crease more easily or develop a different appearance.
This is another reason why it is useful to
understand how a fabric behaves before starting the garment
Test a Small Piece
It is not always possible or practical to wash several metres of fabric, particularly when working with a large roll.
In this case, you can begin by testing a small piece.
For example, I can cut a 5 × 5 cm square and carefully measure it.
I then wash it in the same way the finished garment will eventually be cared for.
Once the sample has been washed and dried, I measure it again.
If it is no longer 5 × 5 cm, I can already see that it has shrunk.
I can also observe whether its colour, feel, softness or appearance has changed.
This simple test can therefore provide a lot of useful information without having to wash several metres of fabric straight away.
Not All Fabrics Are Washed in the Same Way
Pre-washing obviously does not mean automatically putting every fabric in the washing machine.
You need to consider the textile composition, its care instructions and the way the finished garment will eventually be cared for.
For some delicate fabrics or garments intended for professional cleaning, preparation will be different.
The main objective is to anticipate.
As far as possible, a fabric should be prepared according to the life the finished garment will have.
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ARTICLE 5
How Can You Tell If a Fabric Creases Easily?
Some people love the naturally creased appearance of certain materials.
Others cannot stand it.
If you want a garment that stays as neat as possible, there is a very simple test you can carry out before you even buy the fabric.
The Hand Test
Take a section of fabric in your hand.
Squeeze and scrunch it for a few seconds.
Then release it.
Look at what happens.
Do the creases remain very noticeable?
Does the fabric quickly return to its original shape?
Do some marks remain visible but gradually soften?
This simple gesture can already give you a good idea of how the fabric will behave.
A Fabric That Creases Is Not Necessarily Poor Quality
This is very important.
Creasing is not automatically a flaw.
Linen, for example, naturally creases, and this is part of its character.
Depending on the garment, these creases can be completely acceptable and may even contribute to its charm.
However, if someone knows that they really dislike visible creases in their clothes, it is better to know this before buying several metres of a fabric that creases easily.
Look at the Type of Creases Too
Not all fabrics crease in the same way.
Some develop soft, natural creases.
Others retain much sharper marks.
That is why the hand test is useful: you are not only checking whether the fabric creases, but how it creases.
And once again, there is not necessarily a good or bad result.
You simply need to know whether this behaviour suits the garment you want to create and the person who will wear it.
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KEY POINTS TO REMEMBER
✓ A lining can help manage the transparency of certain fabrics.
✓ Its colour can also change the appearance of the outer fabric and become a genuine design element.
✓ A lining can also improve comfort and contribute to the construction of the garment.
✓ Drape cannot simply be described as “fluid” or “structured”. A fabric can be fluid without necessarily clinging to the body, or heavy while remaining soft.
✓ The lining itself can alter the drape of the outer fabric.
✓ When choosing a fabric according to body shape, you also need to consider the person, the design, the proportions and the desired result.
✓ Taking body shape into account should never mean limiting yourself.
✓ Pre-washing helps anticipate shrinkage and possible changes in the appearance of a textile.
✓ When it is not possible to pre-wash all the fabric, a small sample measured before and after washing can already provide valuable information.
✓ A fabric that creases easily is not necessarily a bad fabric. What matters is whether its behaviour suits the desired result.
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SOUAD’S ADVICE — MARAVAL COUTURE
With experience, you naturally learn to touch a fabric, observe its drape and imagine how it will behave once transformed into a garment.
But that does not mean I always choose a fabric only after deciding exactly what I am going to make.
Sometimes I buy a fabric simply because I love it.
A colour, a pattern, a texture or a beautiful drape may make me want to buy it even when I do not yet have a particular design in mind.
Sometimes, as soon as I see the fabric, I immediately know what I would like to create with it.
And sometimes, the idea comes later.
In that case, I start with the fabric and look for the design that will truly suit it, rather than trying to force it into a creation that does not suit its behaviour.
And it also works the other way around.
A client may come into the atelier with an idea for a dress, suit or outfit. Based on her project, body shape and desired result, I then consider which fabric will work best.
Sometimes the design leads us to the fabric. And sometimes the fabric leads us to the design.
For me, that is also part of the creative process.
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A QUESTION I AM OFTEN ASKED
Should You Always Pre-Wash Fabric Before Sewing It?
Not necessarily, and above all, not every fabric should be treated in the same way.
It depends on the material and on how the finished garment will be cared for.
When I have any doubt, or when it is not possible to wash all the fabric, I can begin by testing a small sample.
This allows me to observe any shrinkage or change in appearance before making a decision.
The important thing is to anticipate, as far as possible, what will happen to the fabric after the garment has been made, rather than discovering it once the garment is finished.
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READ NEXT
➡️ Chapter 5 — Caring for Textiles
In the next chapter of L’Atelier des Matières, we will look at what happens once a garment has been made: how to wash different fabrics, dry them, iron them and, above all, preserve them for as long as possible.
Because a fabric’s story does not end once it has been chosen and transformed: a beautiful garment also needs to be cared for in a way that respects its material.
CONTACT — MARAVAL COUTURE
📍 Maraval Couture
8 rue Michel Rondet
42000 Saint-Étienne
For any questions about fabrics, sewing projects, bespoke creations or sewing lessons, please feel free to contact Maraval Couture.
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