CHAPTER 5 — THE SECRETS OF FABRICS
From Their Origins to Their Care: Understanding Fabrics Right Down to Their Fibres
In the previous chapters of L’Atelier des Matières, we have talked extensively about choosing fabrics, how they drape, how they behave, and how a material can completely transform a creation.
But there are two questions that I find essential:
What happens to a material once the garment is finished?
And where does it really come from before it reaches our hands?
Because a fabric does not begin its life on the cutting table, and its journey does not end when the final stitch is sewn.
Before reaching a workshop, there was a fibre, a plant, sometimes an animal, cellulose, a transformation process, a yarn, and then weaving or knitting.
And once it becomes a garment, the textile continues to live: it will be worn, washed, dried, ironed, stored, and sometimes even passed on.
For this final major chapter of L’Atelier des Matières, I have therefore chosen to bring together two subjects that are ultimately inseparable: caring for fabrics and understanding their origins.
We will begin by looking at textile care.
Then we will follow the thread back, almost literally, to discover what lies behind some of the materials we use every day.
PART ONE — CARING FOR FABRICS
ARTICLE 1
How to Care for Delicate Fabrics
When we talk about delicate fabrics, we often immediately think of silk or lace.
But in a workshop, I have learned that we need to be much more careful with this term.
A fabric can be delicate because of its fibre, but also because of its construction, dye, embroidery, embellishments, or the way the garment has been made.
Very fine lace, a fabric embroidered with beads, lightweight chiffon, or certain wool fabrics will obviously not require the same precautions.
And a finished garment is not simply a piece of fabric.
Before Washing, Look at the Garment as a Whole
This is probably the first piece of advice I would give.
Before asking:
“Can this material be washed?”
we should also ask:
“Can this garment be washed in this way?”
A dress may contain several different materials.
The outer fabric may tolerate water, while the lining may react differently. There may also be lace, beads, embroidery, boning, shoulder pads, interfacing, or other construction elements.
This is particularly important for occasion wear, wedding dresses, suits, and highly detailed garments.
So we are not simply caring for a fibre. We are caring for an entire garment
Water Is Not the Only Thing to Consider
When a textile is delicate, several factors can damage it:
temperature, friction, agitation, spinning, certain laundry products, and sometimes even the drying process.
Be Careful with Sunlight Too
We often think about water and washing temperatures, but sunlight can also damage certain materials.
Prolonged exposure can cause some colours to fade or change. I have noticed this particularly with fabrics such as linen: when one part remains exposed to sunlight for a long time, the difference in colour can sometimes become visible.
Certain synthetic, coated, or imitation leather materials — such as what is commonly known as faux leather — can also deteriorate when exposed to heat and sunlight. They may harden, warp, become sticky, or eventually begin to break down.
Protecting a textile is therefore not just about washing it properly: it also means considering light, heat, and where it is dried or stored.
A washing cycle that seems gentle may still be followed by a spin cycle that is too strong.
A fabric may tolerate water very well but react poorly to high temperatures.
A material may also retain its dimensions while losing some of its appearance or softness.
That is why I always prefer to observe the material and follow its care instructions rather than applying the same method to every fabric described as “delicate.”
ARTICLE 2
Can Silk Be Machine-Washed?
This is a question that I would find very difficult to answer with a simple “yes” or “no.”
Because when we say “silk,” we are talking about a fibre, not one single type of fabric.
Silk can be made into satin, chiffon, crêpe, organza, and many other fabrics.
The way the textile behaves will therefore depend on its construction, dye, finishing, and the garment itself.
Some Silks Can Withstand Gentle Washing… But It Is Not a Rule
Some silk fabrics can be washed in water according to the manufacturer’s care instructions.
But that does not mean that all silk garments can be put in a washing machine.
The colour may change.
The surface may change.
The fabric may lose some of its lustre or structure.
And above all, the garment may contain other elements that cannot withstand this type of washing.
That is why the garment’s care label remains essential.
A Silk Dress Is Not Just a Piece of Silk Fabric
This is an important distinction.
Before making the garment, we can sometimes test a fabric sample.
Once the garment has been made, however, we are dealing with a complete construction.
Imagine a dress with an outer silk fabric, a lining, interfacing, lace, and some embroidered details.
Even if the outer silk could withstand a certain type of washing on its own, this does not automatically mean that the finished dress will react in the same way.
We must always consider the creation as a whole.
ARTICLE 3
Why Do Some Fabrics Shrink?
As we saw in Chapter 4, it can be useful to pre-wash certain fabrics or test a small sample before making a garment.
But why can a textile actually become smaller after its first wash?
To understand this, we need to look not only at the fibre, but also at how the textile was made.
A Fabric Has Already Been Under Tension Before It Reaches Us
During manufacturing, fibres and yarns go through various processes.
They may be stretched or held under tension during certain stages of spinning, weaving, knitting, or finishing.
When the textile is later exposed to water, heat, and agitation, some of these tensions may be released.
The structure reorganises itself, and the dimensions of the textile may decrease.
Some fibres also absorb moisture and swell, which can contribute to changes in the textile’s dimensions.
Not All Shrinkage Is the Same
Shrinkage Can Also Differ Depending on the Direction of the Fabric
A fabric does not necessarily shrink in the same way in both directions.
In a woven fabric, we distinguish between the warp direction, which corresponds to the yarns running along the length of the fabric, and the weft direction, which corresponds to the yarns running across its width.
After washing, shrinkage may be greater in one direction than in the other. A fabric may therefore, for example, lose more length than width, or vice versa.
This is a very important detail when preparing and cutting a garment, because the direction of the fabric also affects how it hangs and behaves.
This phenomenon can sometimes be observed in certain garments after several washes. A jersey T-shirt, for example, may eventually twist, with the side seams no longer staying perfectly in place. This can be related to the construction of the knit, the tensions created during manufacturing, its stabilisation, or the way the different pattern pieces were positioned and cut.
This is also why, in sewing, I do not only look at how much a fabric shrinks: I also observe the direction in which it shrinks and how its structure reacts to washing.
Two fabrics made from the same fibre will not necessarily shrink in the same way.
Their construction, density, treatments, and finishes may be different.
Some fabrics may also have been stabilised or pre-shrunk during manufacturing.
That is why simply reading “100% cotton” on two rolls of fabric does not guarantee that they will react in exactly the same way when washed.
A Few Centimetres Can Make a Big Difference
Over several metres of fabric, even a small percentage of shrinkage can amount to several centimetres.
On a fitted garment, those few centimetres can be enough to alter its length, width, or comfort.
That is precisely why I like to understand how a fabric will behave before constructing the garment around it.
ARTICLE 4
How to Properly Press Different Fabrics
Ironing is often considered the final step: you finish the garment, and then you iron it.
In sewing, that is not quite how I see it.
Pressing is part of the construction of a garment.
During the sewing process, we press seams open, shape certain areas, press seam allowances into place, and prepare for the next stages.
A garment that has been properly pressed throughout its construction will not have the same appearance as one that is simply “fixed” with an iron at the very end.
The Right Temperature Depends on the Material
Not all fibres can withstand the same amount of heat.
Some materials can tolerate higher temperatures, while others may distort, become shiny, melt, or be permanently marked by an iron that is too hot.
It is therefore important to follow the care instructions and, when in doubt, start with a low temperature and test on an inconspicuous area or a fabric sample.
Steam Is Not Always the Answer
Steam can be extremely useful in sewing.
But more steam does not necessarily mean a better result.
Depending on the material and its construction, moisture and heat can alter the shape or appearance of the textile.
The technique should therefore be adapted accordingly.
Ironing or Pressing?
In the atelier, there is also a difference between continuously moving the iron across a garment and pressing a specific area during construction.
For certain operations, we place the iron down, apply the necessary heat, and then lift it rather than moving the fabric in every direction.
A press cloth, meaning a piece of fabric placed between the iron and the material, can also be very useful for protecting certain surfaces.
And with some fabrics, working from the wrong side can help prevent marks or a shiny appearance.
An iron is a genuine sewing tool. It can enhance a garment beautifully, but if used incorrectly, it can also damage a material in just a few seconds.
The Same Material Can Require Very Different Techniques
The name of a material alone is not always enough to determine how it should be pressed.
Wool, for example, is not only a winter material. Depending on the fineness of the fibres, the weight, and the construction of the textile, it can produce fabrics that are very lightweight or much warmer. The iron, steam, and pressure should therefore be adapted to the fabric actually in front of us, rather than simply to the word “wool” on its fibre composition label.
The same applies to linen. This fibre has a very long textile history. It played an important role in ancient Egypt, where linen fabrics were used for clothing as well as in funerary practices, particularly for wrapping mummies. Even today, a fine, lightweight linen and a heavier linen are not handled in exactly the same way.
PART TWO — INSIDE THE WORLD OF FIBRES
So far, we have followed textiles after they have been transformed into garments.
Now, let’s take the journey in reverse.
Let’s go back to before the fabric, before the yarn, and sometimes even before the fibre itself.
Because understanding where a material comes from often helps us better understand how it behaves.
ARTICLE 6
How Can Wood Become Fabric?
When we look at a flowing dress, a shirt, or a piece of fabric, it can be quite difficult to imagine that the material we are holding in our hands may have begun its journey in a tree.
And yet, some textile fibres are made from plant-based cellulose, generally extracted from wood.
This is particularly the case with viscose and lyocell.
We have already discussed viscose in previous chapters. This time, I am interested not only in what it is, but in understanding how wood can be transformed into a fibre fine and soft enough to become fabric.
It All Begins with Cellulose
Wood is made up of several components, including cellulose.
To produce certain textile fibres, wood is processed to obtain a cellulose-rich pulp. This pulp is then purified and prepared for further transformation.
At this stage, we are still a long way from the fabric we know.
The cellulose must then be processed so that it can be formed into extremely fine filaments.
From Cellulose to Filament
This is where the process becomes particularly interesting.
The prepared cellulose is processed and dissolved using a method that varies depending on the fibre being produced.
This material is then pushed through tiny openings called spinnerets.
This produces extremely fine filaments.
These filaments are then solidified, washed, and prepared before undergoing further processing.
Little by little, what originally began as plant cellulose becomes a textile fibre.
And Then, How Does It Become Fabric?
Producing a fibre is only one stage.
Depending on the process and the desired product, the filaments can be used as they are or processed into fibres and then yarns.
These yarns can then be woven or knitted to create a textile.
It is only at the end of all these stages that we find the material in the form we recognise in our ateliers and in our clothes.
We can therefore summarise this journey as follows:
Wood → cellulose → processing → filaments → fibres or yarns → textile
Viscose and Lyocell: A Similar Origin, but Different Processes
Viscose and lyocell have one important thing in common: they are manufactured cellulosic fibres.
Their raw material is plant-based, but it must be transformed to become a textile fibre.
However, their manufacturing processes are not the same.
Later in this chapter, we will take a closer look at lyocell and the name TENCEL™, which is appearing more and more frequently on textile labels.
A Plant-Based Material Is Not Necessarily a Natural Fibre
This is probably the most surprising thing to remember.
When a material comes from wood, we might naturally assume that it is a natural fibre, just like cotton or linen.
But that is not exactly the case.
With cotton or linen, the fibre already exists in the plant and is collected and prepared before being spun.
With viscose or lyocell, we start with plant cellulose, which is transformed to create a new fibre.
That is why they are classified as manufactured cellulosic fibres.
And I think this example perfectly illustrates why the world of textiles is so fascinating:
behind a very soft and flowing fabric, there can sometimes be… a tree.
ARTICLE 7
How Does Cotton Become Fabric?
We all know cotton.
But between the tiny fibre that grows around a seed and the fabric we buy by the metre, there is an entire journey.
It All Begins in a Cotton Boll
Cotton grows on a cotton plant.
After flowering, cotton bolls develop. When they mature and open, they reveal the cotton fibres surrounding the seeds.
After harvesting comes ginning, the process that separates the fibres from the seeds.
The fibres are then cleaned and prepared.
From Fibre to Yarn
The fibres must be organised and prepared before they can be spun.
Spinning transforms this mass of fibres into yarns that are regular and strong enough to be used.
But we still do not have a fabric.
From Yarn to Fabric
The yarns can then be woven or knitted.
And this stage makes an enormous difference.
Two textiles made from cotton can look and behave very differently depending on the yarns used and the way they are constructed.
This is how the same fibre can produce very different textiles.
So when we buy “cotton,” we are not simply buying a fibre. We are also buying all the work that has transformed that fibre into a textile.
ARTICLE 8
Is Linen Really Eco-Friendly?
Linen has a very positive image when it comes to natural materials and the environment.
And it does indeed have some interesting characteristics.
But I prefer to be cautious about overly simple answers.
An Interesting Fibre Does Not Tell the Whole Story
Textile flax comes from the stem of the plant.
Its cultivation can offer certain advantages depending on the region and farming practices, and in some areas, the plant can be grown with relatively little additional irrigation.
But simply saying:
“Linen is eco-friendly”
overlooks all the stages that come afterwards.
We also need to consider fibre processing, treatments, dyeing, finishing, transportation, and the manufacturing of the finished product.
We Also Need to Talk About Lifespan
The impact of a textile does not depend only on how it begins its life.
A high-quality garment that is worn for many years, cared for properly, repaired when necessary, and perhaps eventually passed on has a very different story from a garment that is worn only a few times and then discarded.
This is an aspect that I find particularly important in sewing.
The material matters, but what we do with it matters too.
ARTICLE 9
Why Does Wool Keep Us Warm?
When we think of wool, we often immediately picture winter, a coat, or a thick sweater.
However, as we have already seen in previous chapters, wool is not limited to thick winter fabrics.
There are also much lighter wool fabrics.
The Secret Lies, in Part, in Air
Wool fibres naturally have a crimped structure.
This structure allows wool textiles to trap small pockets of air.
Still air acts as an insulator and helps reduce heat transfer.
This is an important part of the warmth that wool can provide.
Wool and Moisture
Wool can also absorb a certain amount of water vapour while still remaining relatively comfortable to wear.
This helps regulate the microclimate around the body.
But a very fine, lightweight wool designed for a summer suit will obviously not behave in the same way as a thick wool fabric intended for a winter coat.
Once again, the name of the fibre alone does not define the garment.
We also need to consider its weight, construction, and intended use.
ARTICLE 10
What Is Lyocell, Also Known as TENCEL™?
These are two terms that we are seeing more and more often on textile labels.
And they are sometimes used as though they mean exactly the same thing.
However, there is an important distinction.
Lyocell Is the Name of the Fibre
Like viscose, lyocell is a manufactured cellulosic fibre.
Its raw material is plant-based cellulose, generally derived from wood.
The cellulose is dissolved and then processed to produce filaments.
The lyocell process differs from the traditional viscose process, particularly in the solvent system used and the way the solvent is recovered in modern industrial processes.
And What About TENCEL™?
TENCEL™ is a trademark of Lenzing, used for certain fibres produced by the company, including lyocell fibres.
In other words:
not all lyocell is TENCEL™, although TENCEL™ Lyocell is indeed lyocell.
It is a little like when a brand name becomes so well known that we sometimes end up using it to refer to an entire category of products.
Understanding this distinction helps us read textile labels more accurately and avoid confusing the name of a fibre with a manufacturer’s brand name.
ARTICLE 11
Are Natural Fibres Always Better?
To conclude L’Atelier des Matières, I wanted to return to an idea that we come across very often.
“Natural is always better.”
I love beautiful natural materials. I have been working with cotton, linen, wool, and other fibres for many years.
But in the world of textiles, things are rarely that simple.
Natural Does Not Automatically Mean Perfect
A natural fibre has to be grown or produced, harvested, prepared, processed, sometimes dyed, treated, and then transported.
Depending on its origin and how it is produced, its journey can therefore be very different.
And a Manufactured Fibre Is Not Automatically Bad
Some manufactured fibres can meet specific needs in terms of durability, elasticity, lightness, or ease of care.
There are also manufactured cellulosic fibres, such as viscose and lyocell, which show that the boundaries between our usual categories are more subtle than they may seem.
Perhaps the Real Question Lies Elsewhere
Rather than simply asking:
“Is it natural or synthetic?”
I prefer to ask:
Where does this material come from?How was it made?Is it suitable for the garment I want to create?How will it age?How will I care for it?And how long will this garment be worn?
Because in sewing, we are not working with a definition.
We are working with a real material.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
✓ A delicate textile should be considered as part of the entire garment: outer fabric, lining, embroidery, interfacing, and other elements.
✓ Not all silks should be cared for in the same way.
✓ Shrinkage depends on the fibre, but also on the construction and treatments of the textile.
✓ Pressing is not simply a finishing step: it is part of the garment-making process.
✓ Light, humidity, dust, and improper storage can also damage textiles.
✓ Viscose is made from plant-based cellulose that is processed to create a fibre.
✓ Cotton goes through many stages before becoming the fabric we know.
✓ The impact of a material cannot be summed up by its name alone.
✓ Wool can provide insulation thanks in part to its structure and the air trapped within the textile, but not all wool fabrics are intended for winter.
✓ Lyocell is the name of a fibre; TENCEL™ is a trademark.
✓ A natural fibre is not automatically “better” simply because it is natural.
SOUAD’S FINAL ADVICE — MARAVAL COUTURE
After all these years spent working with fabrics, I have learned that you can never truly understand a material simply by its name or its label.
You have to touch it, observe how it drapes, cut it, sew it, sometimes wash it, and sometimes
even make mistakes with it in order to truly get to know it.
There have been times when I bought a fabric because I knew exactly what I was going to make with it.And there have also been times when I came across a material I loved without yet knowing what it would become.
Over the years, fabrics almost become a language.
You learn to recognise the ones that require patience, the ones that surprise you, the ones that refuse to behave the way you imagined, and the ones that, once worked with, give an even more beautiful result than expected.
That is also why I wanted to create L’Atelier des Matières.
Not to give rules saying that a fabric is always good or bad, that a material belongs to a particular season, or that certain body shapes should avoid certain things.
I wanted to share some of what materials have taught me throughout my career.
Observe. Touch. Test. Understand. Then create.
Because behind every garment, before the pattern, before the cutting, and before the sewing, there is always a material.
And very often, it is the material that gives a creation its character.
TO CONCLUDE — L’ATELIER DES MATIÈRES
With this fifth chapter, our journey into the heart of textiles comes to an end.
We began by understanding what a textile really is.
We compared different materials.
We learned how to choose them according to the garment and the desired result.
We explored their drape, transparency, and how they react to washing and wrinkling.
And finally, we went all the way back to their origins before learning how to care for and preserve them.
But in my atelier, the story continues every day.
Because there will always be a new fabric to discover, a new material to understand, and a new creation to imagine.
Souad — Maraval CoutureL’Atelier des Matières
Contact — Maraval Couture
📍 Maraval Couture8 rue Michel Rondet42000 Saint-Étienne, France
📞 +33 7 53 36 27 79
For any questions about materials, fabrics, your sewing projects, made-to-measure creations, or sewing classes, please feel free to contact Maraval Couture.
Comments