#Chapter 3 : Which Fabric Should You Choose ?

5 Sept

13 min read

Updated: 7 Sept

Choose your fabric according to the garment, the person and the desired result

Choosing a beautiful fabric is one thing.

Choosing the right fabric for the right garment and for the person who will wear it is another.

In sewing, I never look only at the name of a material. I look at its weight, its fall, its flexibility, its outfit, its movement, its transparency, but also the model we want to make and the morphology of the person.

Two fabrics that look very similar when placed on a table can give completely different results when cut, sewn and worn.

We must also avoid locking certain materials in a season.

Linen is very often associated with summer and wool with winter. Yet, depending on their weight, weaving and construction, these materials can be used at different times of the year.

A very fine wool can be suitable for a light creation, while a denser linen can perfectly fit in an outfit intended for a cooler season.

After having compared different subjects in the previous chapter of L'Atelier des Matières, we will now move on to something much more concrete:

Which subject to choose according to what you want to create ?

Article 1

What material should you choose for a summer dress?

For a summer dress, we naturally look for lightness and comfort.

But this does not mean that it is enough to choose the finest fabric possible.

I look first at the cut of the dress, but also at the shape of the person who is going to wear it.

A straight dress, a loose-fitting dress, a fitted dress, a short dress or a very flowing long dress won’t need the same material.

And depending on the chosen fabric, it can follow more the shapes of the body, plating on certain areas, accompany curves more discreetly or, on the contrary, provide more structure.

🌿 The cotton veil

Cotton voile is a material that I particularly like for some light creations.

It is thin, soft and comfortable to wear.

It can give a lot of delicacy to a loose dress, a blouse or a summer creation.

Depending on its transparency, however, it may be necessary to double it.

🌿The lightweight cotton poplin

Poplin generally has more hold.

It can be very interesting when a dress needs to keep a nice shape: a marked waist, gathers, a slightly flared skirt or some construction details.

It will generally give less movement than a very fluid viscose, but more structure.

🌿Linen

Linen can be beautiful for a summer dress.

I like its natural look, its character and the way it evolves when worn.

He is easily upset, of course, but it is part of his identity.

And above all, flax should not be considered only as a summer material.

Depending on its weight and construction, it can be very light or much denser.

🌿Viscose

For a dress that needs to have a lot of movement, viscose can be very interesting.

It is often flexible and fluid and naturally accompanies the body.

But this fluidity must also be taken into account according to the morphology and the desired result.

Some very fluid materials follow shapes more closely. This is neither an advantage nor a defect: it all depends on what the person wants to obtain.

🌿The light pancake

Some light pancakes can also be suitable for a summer dress.

They can provide a very nice drape while giving a different result from cotton voile, linen or viscose.

Again, I look at the composition, weight and flexibility of the fabric.

So, which subject should you choose?

I look at the silhouette of the dress and the morphology of the person.

Does she want to show off her curves ?

Does she prefer the fabric to accompany them more discreetly ?

Does she want a loose, structured or very flowing dress ?

For me, the fabric, the model and the person must always be thought of together.

Article 2

What material should you choose for a wedding dress ?

For a wedding dress, the possibilities are much more numerous than we imagine.

We immediately think of satin, lace, tulle, chiffon or silk.

But there is not a single subject reserved for the bride.

A very structured dress, a fluid dress, a bohemian dress, a refined creation or a dress with a lot of volume will not require the same textiles.

🌿The satin

Satin is very present in the world of the wedding dress.

But not all satins give the same result.

Some are flexible and fluid, while others have more body and allow to build a more structured silhouette.

So I look at its composition as much as its weight, its touch, and its fall.

🌿The pancake

The crepe can be beautiful for a refined wedding dress.

It often allows you to let the cut speak: a nice back, an elegant line, a long silhouette or a particular work around the waist.

🌿Lace

Lace can become the main element of the dress or be used only by touches.

It can dress a bodice, a back, sleeves, a neckline or be applied on certain parts of the model.

Its pattern, relief, flexibility and borders can completely change the result.

🌿The tulle

Tulle has several functions.

A soft tulle can give a lot of lightness to a veil, sleeves or a skirt.

On the contrary, a more rigid tulle can be used to build volume and play a real technical role in the dress.

🌿Organza and muslin

Organza allows you to create lightness while maintaining a certain hold.

Muslin is more sought after for its fluidity and movement.

These are two light materials, but they do not give absolutely the same result.

🌿Linen, cotton voile, and less anticipated materials

A wedding dress does not have to be made from a material traditionally associated with marriage.

Linen, cotton voile and some cottons can give magnificent creations when their behavior matches the desired model.

Lately, I have also started to work more with cotton veil for some of my wedding dresses.

I like its lightness, its softness, and the natural character it can bring to a creation.

Some of my creations in cotton voile are also visible in my Etsy shop Maraval Couture.

The choice of a material for a wedding dress must above all match the woman who will wear it, the model and the universe you want to create.

Article 3

What material should you choose for an evening dress ?

For an evening dress, I start by asking myself:

What effect do we want to achieve?

A short dress?

A long dress?

A dress close to the body?

A very flowing skirt?

A silhouette with a lot of volume?

A sober creation or something much more spectacular?

The material will play an essential role in the result.

🌿The satin

Satin can immediately bring a dressed look.

But a soft and fluid satin will not have the same behavior as a heavier or more structured satin.

🌿The pancake

The crepe works very well for some elegant and refined dresses.

It can allow you to get a beautiful line without needing to add much decoration.

🌿The muslin

Muslin is interesting when you are looking for lightness and movement.

It can be used with a lining or in several thicknesses to play with transparency and fluidity.

🌿Velvet

Velvet adds a lot of depth to a dress.

But I don’t want to lock him in a season.

It all depends on its composition and weight.

A light silk velvet does not have the same behavior as a much denser velvet.

🌿The brocade

Brocade can be beautiful for an evening outfit.

Its patterns, colors and relief can become a real part of the garment design.

It can be used on the whole of a creation or only on some parts.

🌿Acetate

Some acetate fabrics can also give very good results.

Depending on their construction, they can bring fluidity, fall or shine.

🌿The embroidery and sequins

Here, the taste of the person matters a lot.

Some like sequins, embroidery, and very present materials.

Others prefer something much more discreet.

You can make a dress entirely from a spectacular material or use these elements

only on a bodice, a sleeve or certain details.

The evening dress must above all match the person who will wear it and the effect they want to create.

Article 4

Which material should you choose for a custom-made suit ?

For a custom-made suit, personally, my first choice is wool.

It is a material that I particularly appreciate for its behavior, its outfit, and its fit.

But this does not mean that a suit must be made of wool.

That’s precisely the whole point of custom-made products: we don’t have to stick to the codes of classic costumes.

Today, you can work with a lot of different materials depending on the client’s personality, the occasion and the style sought.

🌿Wool

For me, wool remains a reference material for the suit.

It can give a very beautiful outfit to a jacket and perfectly accompany the construction of the pants.

But talking about "wool" does not necessarily mean talking about a thick fabric or intended for winter.

There are extremely fine and light woollens, just as there are heavier and more structured woollens.

The weight and construction change everything.

🌿Linen

Linen allows you to obtain a suit with a completely different character.

It can be beautiful for a ceremony, a wedding or simply for someone looking for a more natural look.

His wrinkling is part of his identity.

And as with wool, not all linens are the same: their weight and construction can be very different.

🌿Cotton

Some cotton fabrics can also be used to make suits, jackets or pants.

They allow yet another interpretation of the costume.

🌿Hemp and mixtures

Fiber blends open up a lot of possibilities.

You can find wool associated with cotton, linen associated with cotton, but also flax with hemp or cotton with hemp.

Hemp can bring character and durability, with a very interesting natural look.

As always, it all depends on the mix, weight and weaving.

🌿The satin and the duchess satin

And why not make a satin suit?

It’s entirely possible.

A duchess satin, for example, has more body and can be very interesting for certain creations when looking for a dressed look and a material with presence.

Satin can be used on a whole suit or only on certain parts, depending on the model.

🌿The brocade

I really like the brocade in the suit.

It can be used for a vest, a whole jacket, a collar or certain details.

A black brocade can be extremely elegant.

But you can also choose color, flowers, more graphic patterns or something much more daring.

A brocade jacket can become the strong piece of an outfit.

🌿And why not the wax?

The wax shows very well how far you can go when you get out of the classic suit.

I’ve seen costumes made with wax, and the result can be very beautiful.

Its colors and patterns allow to create pieces with a lot of personality.

We can imagine it on a jacket, a vest, a tie or different details, but also go much further according to what the client wants.

In my work, we have already made ties, vests and different pieces by playing with materials and patterns.

So if a customer comes to see me and wants a wax suit, why reply that a suit must necessarily be made of wool?

My personal choice may be wool, but tailoring is precisely about listening to the person and creating for them.

🌿A suit can be classic... or not at all

That’s probably what I like most about custom-made products.

You can make an extremely classic and elegant wool suit.

But you can also create a floral brocade jacket, a very elaborate cardigan, introduce satin, choose wax, mix different materials or build a much more original outfit.

The custom-made suit is not an imposed material. It is a creation designed for one person.

Article 5

Which material should I wear when it’s very hot ?

When the weather is very hot, the first idea is often to look for the finest fabric possible.

However, a very fine fabric is not automatically the most comfortable.

You have to look at its composition, its construction, its contact with the skin, but also the cut of the garment.

🌿Linen

Linen is very interesting when it’s hot.

Depending on the chosen fabric, it can be used for dresses, shirts, pants or loose clothes.

🌿Cotton

Some light cottons are also very pleasant.

Cotton voile, gauze or some light poplin can be good options depending on the garment.

🌿Viscose

A soft viscose can provide a lot of fluidity.

It allows to make clothes that accompany the movement and can be very pleasant depending on the chosen model.

🌿The cut is essential

Matter is not everything.

An extremely tight garment, even made of a light material, will not give the same feeling as a looser garment allowing air to circulate.

The shape of the garment is therefore as important as textiles.

Cover up when it’s very hot ?

It is sometimes thought that when the weather is very hot, we should wear as little fabric as possible.

Yet, in desert regions, traditional clothing also shows the importance of protecting the body from the sun.

The scarf, notably carried by the Tuaregs and in different regions of the Sahara, is a well-known example.

This is a reminder that in times of high heat, one should not only think about the thickness of a fabric.

You also have to think about protection against the sun, the size of the garment and the flow of air.

Comfort comes from the whole: the material, the cut and the way the garment is worn.

Article 6

What are the best materials for winter ?

For the winter, we naturally look for more warmth and protection.

But the thickest fabric is not necessarily the only solution.

The fibre, weight, weave, construction of the garment, lining and overlays all matter.

🌿Wool

Wool is obviously one of the most interesting materials.

It exists in extremely different qualities, weights and constructions.

It can be used for coats, jackets, suits, pants, dresses or skirts.

But again, I don’t want to say:

«laine = hiver».

A very fine wool can perfectly find its place in a much lighter creation.

🌿Linen

Flax is often presented only as a summer material.

Yet, depending on its weight, a denser flax can be worn during colder seasons.

With a good construction of the garment and possibly a small wool or another layer underneath, it can be very interesting.

For me, flax is one of those materials that can be used in different seasons.

🌿Cashmere

Cashmere is appreciated for its softness and thermal qualities.

It can be used alone or mixed with other fibers.

🌿The flannel

Flannel can be very pleasant when you are looking for more warmth and a soft touch.

It can notably be used for trousers, jackets or suits.

🌿The tweed

Tweed has a lot of character.

Its texture and structure can become a real part of the garment style.

🌿Velvet

Velvet can also bring depth, texture and a very beautiful presence.

But as we saw earlier, it all depends once again on its composition and weight.

🌿The overlays

Finally, we must never forget the complete construction of the garment.

A well-chosen lining, several layers or an intelligent combination of materials can sometimes be more interesting than a single extremely thick fabric.

We must therefore look at the fabric that we really have in our hands rather than decide that a material necessarily belongs to a single season.

📌 Things to remember

✓ To choose a fabric, I look at the model, but also the morphology, desires and expectations of the person who will wear it.

✓ A very fluid material can follow the shapes more, while a fabric with more hold can build the silhouette differently.

✓ A wedding dress does not necessarily have to be made of satin, lace or tulle: linen, cotton voile and many other materials can also find their place in the world of marriage.

✓ For an evening dress, the choice depends on the desired effect and taste of the person.

✓ For a suit, wool remains my choice of reference, but linen, cotton, hemp, blends, duchess satin, brocade or even wax allow to imagine very different creations.

✓ When it’s very hot, matter matters, but the cut, span and flow of air are also essential.

✓ Wool and linen should not be locked in a single season: the grammage, weaving and construction of the textile change its use enormously.

In sewing, there isn’t a perfect material for everything. There is above all a subject adapted to a project, to a person and to the desired result.

✂️ Souad’s council—Maraval Couture

With experience, my way of choosing a fabric has become very instinctive.

Sometimes I buy a fabric just because I like it.

Sometimes, as soon as I see it and touch it, I already see the model I could create with.

And conversely, when a customer enters my workshop with a specific idea, it happens that the fabric immediately comes to mind.

For a custom creation, I start by looking at the client herself.

I look at her morphology, her appearance, her proportions, what she wants to highlight, what she likes to wear and especially the way she wants to feel in her garment.

Then come the model, the material and the color.

Very often, while a customer is explaining to me what she wants, the fabric and the model are already starting to take shape in my head.

All I have to do then is to put the idea on paper, present her with the drawing and, when she agrees, start the realization.

But looking at a person’s morphology certainly does not mean imposing rules on them.

I don’t like the idea that a woman with curves should necessarily wear black, dark or avoid certain colors.

For example, I created a dress in a gradient of roses for a client on the occasion of her daughter’s wedding.

It had shapes and that absolutely did not stop us from working with bright colors.

The result was magnificent.

For me, the role of a designer is not to say:

"With your body type, you are not allowed to wear this or that."

My job is to find the cut, material, proportions and color that will work together for this person.

This is where overfitting comes into its own.

💬 A question I am often asked

Can we use an unusual material for a wedding dress, a ceremonial dress or a suit ?

Of course.

Habits and traditions can give us points of reference, but they must not prevent creation.

A wedding dress can be made of satin, lace or tulle, but also linen, cotton voile or other materials.

An evening dress can be made of crepe, chiffon, velvet, brocade, acetate or embroidered textile.

And a suit can be classic in wool or become much more creative with duchess satin, brocade, wax or different combinations of materials.

It all depends on the model, the person and the desired result.

Sometimes, a material that we would never have imagined at first becomes precisely what gives the garment its personality.

📖 Read next

➡️ Chapter 4—The Designer’s Advice

In the next chapter of L'Atelier des Matières, I will share more tips from my sewing experience: how to observe a material before buying it, understand its behavior, to avoid certain mistakes and imagine what it could really become once cut and sewn.

Because in sewing, fabric can be the starting point of a creation... just as a creation can lead us to the perfect fabric.