CHAPTER 1 — UNDERSTANDING TEXTILES | ARTICLE 4
Common Misconceptions About Fabrics: Debunking Textile Myths
In the world of textiles, certain claims come up a gain and again:
“Natural is always better.”“Polyester is always poor quality.”“The more expensive a fabric is, the better it is.”“A thick fabric is always stronger.”“100% cotton is always better.”
Over time, these statements can start to sound like facts… when in reality, the world of textiles is far more nuanced.
After more than 30 years of sewing and creating made-to-measure garments, I have worked with a huge variety of materials. I have come across beautiful natural fibres, excellent blends, and very high-quality synthetic fabrics… but also disappointing fabrics in every one of these categories.
So, let’s separate fact from fiction together.
🌿 Myth No. 1 — “A Natural Fibre Is Always Better”
False.
Cotton, linen, wool and silk all have wonderful qualities, but the simple fact that a fibre is natural does not guarantee the quality of the fabric.
Two fabrics made from 100% cotton, for example, can be very different.
Quality also depends on many factors: the fibre used, how the yarn is made, the construction of the fabric, its density, its finishing, and its intended use.
A natural fibre can therefore produce a beautiful fabric… or a much more ordinary one.
🧪 Myth No. 2 — “Synthetic Fibres Are Always Poor Quality”
Also false.
Polyester, polyamide, and other synthetic fibres often have a bad reputation.
However, depending on their quality and how they are used, they can offer valuable properties such as durability, stability, elasticity, lightness, quick drying, and easy care.
They can also be blended with other fibres to modify the way a fabric behaves.
Of course, this does not mean that all synthetic fabrics are excellent.
But saying “synthetic = poor quality” is far too simplistic.
As with natural fibres, it all depends on how the fabric is made and, above all, on its intended use.
💶Myth No. 3 — “The More Expensive a Fabric Is, the Better Its Quality”
Not necessarily.
The price of a fabric depends on many factors.
It can be influenced by:
the raw material;
where it is manufactured;
the weaving or knitting technique;
the finishing;
embroidery or other specialised work;
the rarity of a fibre;
the brand;
the quantities produced.
Elaborate lace or high-quality silk can naturally be expensive because of the materials and craftsmanship required to produce them.
But price alone can never determine whether a fabric is suitable for your project.
A less expensive fabric that is perfectly suited to a design can sometimes give a better result than a very expensive material that has been poorly chosen.
⚖️ Myth No. 4 — “The Heavier a Fabric Is, the Better Its Quality”
False.
This is where it is useful to talk about fabric weight.
Fabric weight refers to the weight of a fabric in relation to its surface area and is generally expressed in grams per square metre (g/m² or GSM).
A lightweight fabric will generally have a lower GSM than a heavier fabric
But be careful: fabric weight is not a measure of quality.
A fine, lightweight chiffon can be of remarkable quality, while a much heavier fabric can be mediocre.
Fabric weight mainly tells us about certain characteristics of a fabric and helps us determine whether it is suitable for the garment we want to make.
🧵 Myth No. 5 — “A Very Dense Fabric Is Always Better”
Not necessarily.
In simple terms, fabric density refers to how closely the yarns or stitches are arranged within the construction of a fabric.
It can influence its appearance, structure, durability, and transparency.
But once again, a denser fabric does not automatically mean a better fabric.
Some fabrics are intentionally designed to be very lightweight, open, or sheer.
Chiffon, tulle, and certain sheer fabrics obviously do not have the same construction as a fabric intended for a jacket or coat.
So, we should always compare like with like.
👗 Myth No. 6 — “A Thick Fabric Is Always Stronger”
Not always.
Thickness and strength are two different things.
A thick fabric can be strong, but its durability also depends on the fibre, the yarn, its construction, and how it is used.
On the other hand, some relatively thin fabrics can be surprisingly strong.
That is why choosing a fabric based solely on its thickness can be misleading.
🤲 Myth No. 7 — “A Fabric That Wrinkles Is Poor Quality”
False.
As we discussed in the previous article, some fibres naturally wrinkle more than others.
Linen is a perfect example.
Its creases are actually part of its characteristic appearance.
A fabric that wrinkles easily is therefore not necessarily poor quality. It simply has certain properties that need to be taken into account when choosing a garment and caring for it.
A characteristic of a material should not be mistaken for a flaw.
🌱 Myth No. 8 — “100% Cotton Always Means Excellent Quality”
No.
This is probably one of the most reassuring things to see when looking at a fabric label.
However, two fabrics carrying exactly the same 100% cotton label can have very different levels of quality, feel, thickness, durability, and price.
Why?
Because the composition tells us which fibre the fabric is made from, but it does not tell us everything about the quality of that fibre, how the yarn was made, the construction of the fabric, or its finishing.
We should therefore avoid judging a textile solely by the percentage shown on its label.
✨ Myth No. 9 — “A Beautiful Fabric Will Always Make a Beautiful Garment”
This one is particularly important in sewing.
Not necessarily.
A fabric may look beautiful on the roll and yet be completely unsuitable for the garment you want to make.
A very fluid fabric will not give the same result as a structured fabric.
A fabric that is perfect for a summer dress will not necessarily be suitable for a jacket.
And a spectacular fabric can sometimes overpower the design itself.
This is where choosing the right fabric truly becomes part of the work of a dressmaker or designer.
A fabric should be chosen not only for what it is, but also for what you want to create with it.
📌 Key Takeaways
✓ Natural does not automatically mean better quality.✓ Synthetic does not automatically mean poor quality.✓ Price alone cannot determine the quality of a fabric.✓ Fabric weight indicates weight, not a level of quality.✓ Thicker or denser does not always mean stronger.✓ A fabric that wrinkles is not necessarily poor quality.✓ 100% cotton alone does not guarantee quality.✓ Above all, the best fabric is the one that is right for the project you want to create
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✂️ Maraval Couture’s Advice
After more than 30 years of sewing, I am wary of rules that are too simplistic when it comes to textiles.
I never choose a fabric simply because it is natural, expensive, thick, or because its label says 100% cotton.
I look at what I want to create.
A flowing dress, a structured wedding gown, a jacket, a summer garment, or a suit will not have the same requirements.
Quality matters enormously, of course. But in sewing, a beautiful fabric is above all one that has been carefully chosen for the creation it will become.
💬 A Question I’m Often Asked
So, is it better to choose natural or synthetic fibres?
There is no single answer that applies to every garment.
It all depends on the result you are looking for: comfort, fluidity, warmth, durability, ease of care, elasticity, structure, or even the appearance of the fabric.
There are also many fibre blends that make it possible to combine different properties.
That is why it is more useful to understand what each material can bring rather than deciding that one family of fibres is always better than another.
And that is exactly what we will explore in the next chapter.
📖 Read Next
➡️ Chapter 2 — Comparing Fabrics: How to Choose the Right Material
We will compare cotton and viscose, linen and cotton, silk and satin, organza and chiffon, soft tulle and stiff tulle, before exploring the different types of lace.
🧵 Contact — Maraval Couture
📍 Maraval Couture8 rue Michel Rondet42000 Saint-Étienne, France
📞 +33 7 53 36 27 79
For any questions about fabrics, your sewing projects, made-to-measure creations, or sewing classes, please feel free to contact Maraval Couture.
With this article, Chapter 1 is now truly complete: each of the four articles has its own purpose, and the fourth naturally leads into the comprehensive fabric comparison in Chapter 2.
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