# 📖Chapter 2—Comparison of materials: how to choose the right fabric ?

When you walk into a fabric shop, two materials can sometimes seem very similar.

They may have a similar colour, a pleasant feel and, at first glance, even appear to give almost the same effect.

Yet once they are cut, sewn and worn, they can behave completely differently.

This is particularly important in dressmaking.

A fabric that is perfectly suited to a summer dress will not necessarily be suitable for a wedding dress. A fabric that creates beautiful volume will not give the fluidity required for another design.

And some comparisons can even be confusing: silk and satin, for example, do not actually refer to the same thing.

In this second chapter of L’Atelier des Matières, I would therefore like to compare several materials that we encounter very often in dressmaking.

Not to decide which one is “the best”, but to understand their differences and, above all, to know when and why to choose them.

ARTICLE 1

🌿1 — Cotton or viscose: what is the difference ?

Cotton and viscose are both very commonly used to make lightweight and comfortable garments.

However, their origins and behaviour are different.

Cotton

Cotton is a natural plant fibre obtained from the cotton plant.

Depending on its quality and the way it is woven or knitted, it can be used to create extremely different textiles: poplin, cotton voile, gauze, denim, cotton satin and many more.

This is precisely why simply saying “it’s cotton” is not enough to know how a fabric will behave.

In dressmaking, I particularly appreciate cotton when a design requires a fabric that is comfortable to wear, relatively stable and easy to work with.

But everything depends on the type of cotton chosen.

Cotton voile and denim are both made from cotton, yet they obviously do not have the same weight, drape or purpose.

Viscose

Viscose is different.

It is made from natural cellulose, most commonly derived from wood, which is processed and then regenerated into textile fibres.

But wood is not the only possible source. The cellulose used to make viscose can also come from cotton, particularly cotton linters, the very short fibres that remain around the seed after the main cotton fibres have been harvested.

This is an interesting detail because cotton and viscose are often presented as two completely separate materials, even though the cellulose used to manufacture some viscose fibres can itself come from cotton.

Viscose is nevertheless classified as a man-made cellulosic fibre, because the natural cellulose undergoes a transformation before becoming a new textile fibre.

In clothing, viscose is often appreciated for its fluidity, softness and movement.

It can be a very good choice for a dress, skirt, blouse or flowing trousers.

However, this fluidity also changes the way it needs to be handled.

A very supple viscose fabric can move more during cutting and may require greater precision when sewing than a stable cotton fabric.

So, cotton or viscose ?

It all depends on the result you are looking for.

For a design that requires greater stability and structure, certain cotton fabrics can be particularly suitable.

For plenty of movement and fluidity, viscose can be beautiful.

So I never look only at the fibre composition: I look at what the fabric will bring to the finished garment.

ARTICLE 2

🌾2 — Linen or cotton: which should you choose ?

Linen and cotton are both natural plant fibres.

They are often associated with summer clothing, but they do not produce the same result at all.

Linen

Linen has a very distinctive character.

It can have a slightly dry feel and sometimes an irregular appearance. It also creases quite easily.

But these characteristics are not necessarily flaws.

They are part of its identity.

With its natural appearance and beautiful behaviour when carefully chosen, linen can bring a great deal of character to a garment.

It is particularly appreciated for dresses, shirts, trousers, lightweight jackets and summer clothing.

Cotton

Cotton can offer a more regular appearance and, depending on the fabric chosen, may be easier to control when sewing.

But once again, there are so many different cotton fabrics that it is important to avoid generalisations.

A lightweight cotton may be suitable for a blouse or summer dress, while a more structured cotton can be used for a jacket or a skirt that requires greater body.

Linen or cotton ?

I would never choose simply between two names written on a label.

I would look at the design first.

Am I looking for a natural, lively appearance? A very stable fabric? A certain softness? More structure ?

There are also linen-cotton blends, which can combine some of the properties of both fibres.

ARTICLE 3

✨3 — Silk or satin: they are not the same thing !

This is probably one of the most common sources of confusion when talking about fabrics.

We often hear:

“Is this dress satin or silk ?”

Yet these two words do not refer to the same thing.

Silk is a fibre

Silk is a natural fibre of animal origin.

It can be used to make many different types of fabric with very different appearances.

Not all silk fabrics are shiny, and not all of them look like satin.

Satin is a weave

Satin primarily refers to a type of weave, in other words, a particular way in which the threads are interlaced.

This construction generally creates a smooth, lustrous surface on the right side of the fabric.

Satin can therefore be made from different fibres.

There can be silk satin, but also polyester satin or cotton satin.

This is why simply asking “Is it satin ?” does not tell us what the fabric is actually made from.

What about a wedding dress ?

This distinction is particularly important.

Depending on the fibre, weight and construction of the satin, the result can be very different: extremely fluid, soft, heavy or, on the contrary, much more structured.

For a wedding dress, I therefore look at both the composition and the drape and structure of the satin.

ARTICLE 4

☁️ 4 — Organza or chiffon: which fabric should you choose ?

They can both be lightweight and transparent, but their behaviour is almost the opposite.

Organza

Organza is fine and transparent but generally has a certain crispness and stiffness.

This structure is precisely what makes it interesting.

It can create volume without necessarily adding a great deal of weight.

In dressmaking, it can be used to create volume in dresses, sleeves, layered effects or decorative details.

Chiffon

Chiffon is also fine and transparent, but its main qualities are its lightness and fluidity.

It moves beautifully with the body.

It can be particularly attractive for airy skirts, lightweight sleeves and different types of layering.

Because it is fine and mobile, however, cutting and sewing it requires greater delicacy.

Organza or chiffon ?

I ask myself one very simple question:

Do I want to create volume or movement ?

If I am looking for structure and volume, I will tend to consider organza.

If I want an airy, flowing effect, chiffon will often be more appropriate.

ARTICLE 5

👰 5 — Soft tulle or stiff tulle: what are the differences ?

Tulle is an essential fabric in the world of bridalwear.

But not all tulles are alike.

Soft tulle

A very soft tulle naturally follows movement.

It can be used for certain veils, layered skirts, sleeves or other delicate details.

Its main advantage is its ability to retain a feeling of lightness.

Stiff tulle

A stiffer tulle has more body and structure.

It can be used when you want to support volume or add fullness to a skirt.

In certain wedding dress constructions, it can therefore play a genuinely technical role.

Two tulles, two different purposes

Choosing tulle simply because it looks beautiful is not enough.

I touch it, handle it and immediately observe how it reacts.

A tulle intended for a delicate veil does not need the same properties as a tulle used to build volume into a skirt.

ARTICLE 6

🪡6 — The different types of lace: how can you recognise and choose them ?

Lace is a world of its own.

When we simply say “a lace dress”, we may actually be referring to extremely different materials.

Some laces are very fine and delicate.

Others are thicker, more graphic or feature raised motifs.

Some have a beautifully worked border that can be used along the hem of a dress, on a sleeve or around a neckline.

There are many different families and techniques of lace, as well as numerous types of lace created by embroidering onto tulle.

But when I choose lace for one of my designs, its name is not the only thing that matters.

First, I look at the pattern

Is it small and delicate ?

Large and dramatic ?

Geometric ?

Floral ?

The design of the lace can completely change the appearance of a dress.

Then I look at its texture and dimension

A very flat lace will not create the same effect as lace with raised motifs or appliques.

On a wedding dress, these details can add beautiful depth.

I examine the border

When a lace has a beautifully worked or scalloped edge, I immediately think about how I can incorporate it into the design.

That border can sometimes become a genuine design feature.

Above all, I look at the dress as a whole

A spectacular lace is not automatically the best choice.

Sometimes a very delicate lace enhances the cut of a dress much more effectively.

Conversely, on a deliberately simple design, a more striking lace can become the main feature of the creation.

The lace should complement the design of the dress, not compete with it.

📌Key points to remember.

✓ Cotton and viscose can both be comfortable to wear, but they behave differently.

✓ Linen and cotton are both natural fibres, but they do not offer the same appearance or drape.

✓ Silk is a fibre, whereas satin refers to a type of weave.

✓ Organza generally provides more structure, while chiffon provides greater fluidity.

✓ Soft tulle and stiff tulle do not serve the same purpose in a garment.

✓ Not all laces are alike: their pattern, texture, softness and borders can completely change the finished result.

✓ There is no single perfect fabric for every design.

The right fabric is the one that allows you to achieve the result you are looking for.

✂️ SOUAD’S ADVICE — MARAVAL COUTURE

After more than 30 years of dressmaking, when I choose a fabric, I do not begin by asking myself which one is “the best”.

I begin by looking at the design I want to create.

I take the fabric in my hands, look at its drape, move it around and already imagine how it will look once it has been cut and sewn.

For a wedding dress, for example, even small differences in the structure or suppleness of a fabric can completely change the silhouette.

This is also why, whenever possible, I always recommend touching and handling fabrics before choosing them.

A photograph can show you a colour or a pattern.

It cannot truly show you the weight, feel, softness or movement of a fabric.

And in dressmaking, these details often make all the difference.

An experience from the atelier

We often associate wedding dresses with satin, lace, tulle or silk. Yet among all the designs I have created, two linen wedding dresses have particularly stayed in my memory.

For both designs, we chose washed linen. It gave the dresses a natural, elegant appearance that was quite different from the fabrics we usually associate with bridalwear.

The first bride wanted a dress that was fitted over the upper body and then flared towards the hem. To add a distinctive detail to the silhouette, we created embroidery all around the lower part of the dress, along the border: fine stems accompanied by leaves and delicate floral motifs.

The result was both refined and delicate, while preserving the natural character of the linen.

The second bride chose something much more understated: a sleeveless dress with a low-cut back, fairly straight through the upper part and gently flaring from the hips.

There were very few decorative details, but the washed linen, the cut and the drape were enough to give the dress all its elegance.

The two designs were very different, yet both were made from the same material.

That is also what I love about my profession: a fabric never determines the style of a dress on its own. Everything depends on how we choose it, how we cut it and what we decide to create with it.

💬 A QUESTION I AM OFTEN ASKED

Can you substitute one fabric for another when using a sewing pattern ?

Sometimes, yes.

But not always.

If the replacement fabric has a very different drape, stretch, thickness or structure, the finished garment may no longer resemble the intended design at all.

Before replacing one fabric with another, it is therefore important to understand why the original fabric was chosen.

It is a very useful habit in dressmaking: do not simply look at the name of a fabric; learn to understand how it behaves.

📖Read next

➡️ Chapter 3 — Which fabric should you choose ?

Now that we have learned how to compare different materials, we will move on to an even more practical question:

Which fabric should you choose according to the garment you want to make?

Summer dresses, wedding dresses, evening gowns, bespoke suits, clothing for very hot weather or fabrics for winter…

We will look at how to adapt your choice of fabric to each project.

🧵 Contact — Maraval Couture

📍 Maraval Couture

8 rue Michel Rondet

42000 Saint-Étienne

📞 07 53 36 27 79

📧 maravalcouture@outlook.fr

🌐 www.maraval-couture.fr

For any questions about fabrics, your sewing projects, bespoke creations or sewing classes, please feel free to contact Maraval Couture.